Plumbing Fuel & Brake Lines

February 24, 2013

Just installed the Pedal box and Master Cylinders today. Very cool pieces. I'm on hold on the Remote Reservoir because I think I'd like to mount a billet piece on the firewall rather than inside under the cowl... need the research it more but I'm leaning toward the Scott's Hot Rods unit (below)

Pedal Box Installed

Scott's Remote Resevoir

All of the above will go away... because I am going to be pioneering a new power brake 
kit developed by my new pal Jeff Collins at Whitby Motorcar!!

April 12-15, 2013

While we wait for the above power brake package to arrive I decided to run the brake lines between the fronts and between the rears. I'll leave the last lines until the Master cylinder and booster arrive.

The first attempt left me with a mangled, multi-bent mess...

After a while I got the hang of it and it all turned out very neatly. My brother Vinnie and grandson Kam were over to help... and while the finished product looked very good... we went through about 15' of 3/16" line getting there.... what the hell no one said I was a professional :)

May 3-4, 2013
Buttoned up the fuel lines, fittings and pump. Used some heat shield to help protect from muffler.

Not a fan of the stuff sent by F5. Staring with the Tank it has all be replaced with Russell Braided Lines and AN fittings, a holly Blue Pump, Holley billet Filters (Post and Pre-Filters)

May 25, 2013

I wanted power brakes for the 33. This weekend it became reality. Thanks Jeff Collins at Whitby MotorcarHe created a kit for the car. Here are the installation steps.

First, installed the new brake pedal supplied in the Kit as per the Wilwood instructions using the hardware supplied in the Factory Five Brake Pedal Package as needed. Also install the brake light switch as described in those instructions.

Used a Grade 8 - ½ bolt of the correct length as a pivot rod as bushing is too tight for the Wilwood rod and c-clips. Used some spacers and a copper thrust bearing (From F5 Kit) so that the nut and bolt can be tightened without restricting free movement of the pedal.

Next, installed the brake pedal pad from the Factory Five Kit using its’ supplied hardware. Finally, installed the entire pedal box assembly. Now lots of room for electronics.

I Removed the 6 studs used to hold the Wilwood Brake Master Cylinders as they will not be required.

Only 3 of the 4 holes go all the way through; the 2 top holes and the bottom left hole (the one closest to the center of the car). Only these 3 holes will be drilled completely through the firewall and the frame members. The 4th hole (bottom right or outboard hole) will only go through the firewall and the outer side of the firewall frame member. This is because the chassis ID or Serial Number is engraved on the inside of that frame member right where that hole would come through and you I did not want to disfigure that identification stamping.

Used a 1/4” bit to open the 4th and final mounting hole up in order to tap it with a 5/16” – 18 tap.

Next, used the mounting template as a guide, and a 7/8” hole saw and a Dremel tool to open the center oval slot. You are able to see the brake lever through that slot when done.

Used 3M synthetic double sided tape normally used for attaching emblems to cars. It is weather proof, very sticky and fairly dense.

  Finally on goes the booster and master assembly. Ready to finish brake lines!!

June1, 2013

OK, the brakes are DONE! Andy was supposed to help, Kamryn was busy...AGAIN so it was just me and Dexter (the dog). 

The mission.... finish the brakes lines front to back. Factory Five supplies steel lines in 5 foot lengths with manny union joints.... leak opportunities IMHO... not to mention i screwed up about 20 feet of line trying to get the lines from side to side fron and back done (oops).

So I bought 25" of that new Ni-Cop brake line everyones is using... and I must say it's the best! Easy to flare and bend plus I was able to go from the new master to the front and rear with NO SPLICES.

After doing some research it seemed reasonable for me to add a proportioning valve to the system. Word is that the rear brakes tend to lock up early on this very light car so i ordered an SSBC polished knob adjustable one from Summit.

I also added a chrome Master Cylinder Cover for some bling action and an off the shelf stainless Prop. Valve Bracket... in the end it all worked very well.

As a note - I was going to run the rear line up the firewall to get into the back of the valve, but Julie came up with the much more difficult to accomplish method of running both front and rear lines together up the side frame rail. MISSION ACCOMPLISHED!!

Below are the pics of the process.

Not shown are pics of the rear brake line.... not much to see really... just a line running the length of the car to the rear.

October 9, 2013

OK, I don't have a section for the "go pedal" so plumbing and brakes seemed like a good spot to post it seeing as it's next to the brake pedal and the carb uses fuel!!

My motor was built with a Holley Street Avenger 670 cfm, Vacuum secondary, electric choke.... tame but reliable. Only problem is that when you look at the instructions it says basically "it will not work with a Ford AOD.... GREAT EH? What is one to do?

Research it and you'll see the only option is to use the Lokar Hi-Tech Kick down cable and Lokar Throttle cable combo. NICE STUFF. It also means that the mechanical throttle linkage I bought from Tim Whitaker of Kootenai Valley Customs is useless to me. Live and learn

First the carb goes on

Then the FFR gas pedal was mounted to the floor. Had to drill through the firewall but the Lokar cable is stainless braided line and billet fittings.


 Then the cables hooked to the carb... voila throttle complete.

October 11, 2013

Time to finish all plumbing so we can get this this fired. We start with the fuel lines. Of course I ditched all of the factory five stuff and used braided 6AN Russell Lines. 

The uncovering of the firewall revealed that I scuffed the powder coating when i installed the engine... PISS ME OFF

Below are pics of the process beginning with the installation of the regulator

Cutting this line is easy as the stainless in embedded inside the rubber. The braiding is some sort of bullet proof synthetic

November 16, 2013

A bit of time has passed since I've been able to work on the car. Some of you may know that we just moved our dealership into a brand new building.... but thats for another blog. Well that blew away the rest of October and then I went to Sema with Orb. See the pics in the Notes, Ideas and Timeline Gaps section by clicking the link 

Anyway... back to the plumbing... The plan is to start at the front and go to the rear and button everything up so I can fire this thing in the next few weeks.

A job I had not been looking forward to was the rad/condenser/grill. Other than time consuming ( took me better part of a Saturday ) all went well.

Just took my time and followed instructions trying all the while to remember which way is up and front and left and right. 

I had purchased one of Mike Eversons fan shrouds and remembered reading that the fan would fit in front of it. I think it was a post or a note from Dan Ruth... So I thought I'd give it a go to keep the fan tight to the rad core. Used both the stock install bars as well as the parts that came with the shroud and it all fit great. 

Also noticed the the grill is already relief cut for the condenser... Nice addition to the kit.

Once the assembly is assembled :) the whole rad and grill bolts onto the supports as a whole. This will all come apart again once I finish fitting the body parts, hood, side panels etc. I wan to send the grill out for chrome and given my natural ability to screw things up (see note above about scuffing the firewall) I figured its best to do chrome after.

November 23, 2013

Well you get the idea I'm sure of how the rad and fan go together... only one thing I did wrong...

I thought I was being smart by putting the fan inside the shroud... turn out this will hinder cooling rather than help it... so I un wound what you see above and did as the interactions form Mike Everson suggests and put the fan outside the shroud.

Next up is the overflow reservoir. No room for it where its suppose to go when the A/C condenser is installed and because of the Power Brake set up (a modification to the Factory Five plan) there is no room on the firewall. So i modified the brackets it cam with an mounted it beside the radiator. It clears the suspension's upper control arm by about 3/4 of an inch at full travel. Good to go

Then all the hoses and finally in goes the antifreeze - 50/50 mix with distilled water.

Andy came over to help bench bleed the master and bleed the brake lines. Made this bench bleeder out of the many steel brake lines i screwed up earlier in the build. All went according to h'oil. Gotta firm pedal!

Next the transmission lines. No way i'm using rubber hose and there are no steel lines available so back to braided lines, this time from Fragola Performance. I got them through my new best friend Paul Hammond at Wheel Class Auto Parts here in Fonthill. Paul has been able to source just about anything I need at Canadian prices close to the US price at Summit. WHay not deal locally if you can! Check out Wheel Class here

Here's a tid bit of info. The Rad has a built in trans fluid cooler. The fitting needed there as well as at the tranny are 1/4 NPT to AN6.

The the trans fluid goes in... after buttoning up the pan. According to Performance Automatics, the Street Smart AOD should take between 10 and 11 Quarts of Dextron III. I only got 7 in before it was seeping out the splines at the tailstock. Now the car hasn't bee fired yet, so either the pump is gonna suck some up into the converter once i get it running or the convert is full and I'll be sucking some out through the dipstick!

Then goes the rear end fluid. No Limited slip friction fluid requires for a Torsen Trac-loc differential (For info on Torsen Rear end click here) so it to 2.4 quarts of 75/90 before it started to leak back out the hole.

Finally a MOPAR filter and engine oil. The filter is a bit shorter, giving me clearance for the power steering unit.

So far no leaking and all fluids except gasoline have been installed. I think the plumbing is DONE!!

February 23, 2014

In order to get the wiring in order the AC Evaporator had to be installed to see how much room would be left for wire management. Its gonna be a challenge, but we'll get'r done!!

June 29, 2014

Update and AC Install - See Video Below

June 30 , 2014

This post is being made to on November 16, 2014... catching up on this blog but want to document this issue. You can see the reason this post is so late by going to the Time Line Gap Page (click) 

Ok... I'm an not sure what happened. I just got done the AC/Heat and needed to refill the rad and burp the cooling system. I was also hoping to set the Kickdown (Throttle Valve) Cable and adjust the throttle cable itself as the floor at the gas pedal was just installed.

Anyway, the car started as usual and as I was waiting for it to come up to temp so the thermostat would open, i heard a "pop". It sounded like a piece of aluminum "ker-plunk"... if that helps. The car was at about 160 degrees and running fine but with that noise it stumbled and then recovered with a blip of throttle.

About 30 seconds late it did it again. This time it just quit! NO F*&%ING WAY IT STARTS AGAIN. WTF???

This is not a complicated thing... or so I think. Gotta be spark or fuel; Right? Well there is plenty of fuel squirting, pressure is good all seems well there, but the car won't fire. Now i read somewhere that oil filled coils don't like to be on their side and of course mine was. Could it be the coil over heating? I check for spark... Nothing at the plug. 

Next stop summit online for a new MSD Coil. Installed... still nothing. Clean plugs try again. Still nothing. Check Spark... Nothing!

I know the wiring is correct (checked it 10 times) so I call Norm the engine builder... he says "well it could be the pick up or the distributor (both were new of course). So I ask him to send a new MSD to replace the PowerFire. It comes, installed, clean plugs and we are back in business... of course this whole process goes over the entire summer. I'm fearing rather defeated and so the last and successful steps do not happen until October 2014 . 

Good News - It runs and as a bonus the new MSD Distributor is much shorter and allows the use of the Cobra Air Cleaner - Yippee!
Again... check the the Time Line Page for all the reasons why so long here

December 27, 2014

Christmas is over for another year so its back to work on the car!!

REAR PARKING BRAKE - Another project I was dreading ended up turning out quite well. 

To put it mildly... I HATE THE FACTORY FIVE E-BRAKE SET UP. Lets face it there is not a lot of space in the car and the handle is ugly etc etc etc.

While online on the FFR forum, I saw this idea and will take it to another level with the INFINITY BOX wiring system

Started off by installing the Mustang Parking Brake Cables that came with the car. They were far too long for this application so had to be cut with the Dremel Cutoff blade... measure 10 times and cut once kinda thing!!

I had to find a way to have the bare ends of the cables connect to the clevis. Lotsa option here I suppose but i went with Dune Buggy Cable extenders from an online "Bug Shop". They clamp on and give me an end to work with. 

To apply the brake I will install a switch inside the car.... likely one of the power window switches from FFR. It will activate (via the InfintyBox inMotion Cell) a 6" linear actuator that will tug on the clevises. The tension will be safeguarded with 2 - 3" springs that will take about 50 pounds of pull before they stretch, which should be enough tug to set the brake

Push the button the other way and the actuator releases the tension... Bob's your uncle.... ELECTRIC PARKING BRAKE!!


  1. You are my inspiration!I'll be saving this for future reference!

    1. Well I'm not sure how inspiring it is, but I am glad you're enjoying the posts. Check back later today... I'm posting a new video update

  2. Hi, this information is helpful for me. i am a also a supplier of SSBC Brakes specially.
    i love your blog so much.
    such a great job....

    1. Thanks Andrew. Its a slow process with only Sundays and Holidays to work on it, but its a hoot!

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