FEBRUARY 1, 2015
Time to sound deaden and start buttoning things up prior to fitting the body panels.
Because of the InfinityBox Modules and battery in the trunk, i had to jump ahead and actually carpet the top levels of the truck and get the wiring tidied up cack there before we get to far along on body fitment. It was a days fussy work but it will look pretty good once the amp and everything is installed and wires all hidden.
As you can see, I've gone with FatMat Mega Mat - SEE IT HERE and have used in on the floors and will put it wherever I can stick it to help quiet things down inside the car.
October 31, 2015
So we have to make relief cuts in the body to make ready for it's installation. Need access to the wiring from the dash and the cowl under the hood. An aluminum/carbon fibre dash panel will cover the gaping holes and hold the instrument cluster, but for now its just removal of fibreglass.
November 28, 29, 2015
One new milestone achieved. The body is on!!
Ok... so everyone says paint the car body off. NO WAY... not this cowboy! That body is on and it's staying that way!
One of the key dimensions is the depth of the interior. This is critical they say so that doors fit better and easier. Here is the picture from the manual.
SO... when we test fitted the body last year we faced all the normal issues with the firewall etc and also that the body was not at the same height from the ground on each side. Resoving taht was a chore and all the while trying to maintain the depth dimesion of 45.5 inches.... near impossible.
At SEMA this year I spoke with Tony Zullo at the FFR booth and told him I was fearing the doors. He said fear not.... install the body like this and its 123.
First get the body fixed to the firewall. Next an most importantly make sure the door sills are all the way down and all the way in hugging the frame tightly. Fasten them from the sides not the top of the sill
Last raised the back of the body with a jack stand until the opening is 45.5", check that all gaps are alike side to side and and attach the rear mounting points in the rear wheel wells.
The body has enough flex in it to make all this happen but working from front to back rather than side to side and up and down is SO MUCH EASIER!!
DONE AND DONE!!!
|The front speaker holes had to be drilled from outside in to ensure missing the frame|
|The front end wires had to be buttoned up down the driver side. Used the zip tie separator method... not tha anyone will ever see it!|
|These are the rear supports I made to help strengthen the connection from the firewall to the body essentially creating a sandwich|
|The support bars are tapped and act as the nut as they squeeze the body to the fire wall on both corners|
|The fuel line required a notch|
|This is a view of the access to the wiring|
|The body is on!! Below are some other pics and angles|
April 30, 2016
STEP ONE - CUT SLOTS AND INSTALL HINGES
NEXT TRY TO GET HARDWARE TO WORK - I think I butchered the inside of the door here. this will take some work to fix....but it works!
|Template cut from box|
|Lotsa tape marks the spot|
|The cut is made - OMG the nerves of it all!!|
|But the look great installed!!|
|Aluminum is laminated into these spots in the fiberglass lid|
|New Rivnut tool - broke the original one|
January 13, 2019
So on and off with the trunk lid 2 more times. Marked the gap two more time... we got it 99%, i think its just a height adjustment now. Will do it after the wheels, tires and seats arrive!