February 24, 2013
Just installed the Pedal box and Master Cylinders today. Very cool pieces. I'm on hold on the Remote Reservoir because I think I'd like to mount a billet piece on the firewall rather than inside under the cowl... need the research it more but I'm leaning toward the Scott's Hot Rods unit (below)
|Pedal Box Installed|
|Scott's Remote Resevoir|
All of the above will go away... because I am going to be pioneering a new power brake kit developed by my new pal Jeff Collins at Whitby Motorcar!!
April 12-15, 2013
While we wait for the above power brake package to arrive I decided to run the brake lines between the fronts and between the rears. I'll leave the last lines until the Master cylinder and booster arrive.
The first attempt left me with a mangled, multi-bent mess...
After a while I got the hang of it and it all turned out very neatly. My brother Vinnie and grandson Kam were over to help... and while the finished product looked very good... we went through about 15' of 3/16" line getting there.... what the hell no one said I was a professional :)
May 3-4, 2013
Buttoned up the fuel lines, fittings and pump. Used some heat shield to help protect from muffler.
Not a fan of the stuff sent by F5. Staring with the Tank it has all be replaced with Russell Braided Lines and AN fittings, a holly Blue Pump, Holley billet Filters (Post and Pre-Filters)
May 25, 2013
I wanted power brakes for the 33. This weekend it became reality. Thanks Jeff Collins at Whitby Motorcar! He created a kit for the car. Here are the installation steps.
Used a Grade 8 - ½ bolt of the correct length as a pivot rod as bushing is too tight for the Wilwood rod and c-clips. Used some spacers and a copper thrust bearing (From F5 Kit) so that the nut and bolt can be tightened without restricting free movement of the pedal.
Used a 1/4” bit to open the 4th and final mounting hole up in order to tap it with a 5/16” – 18 tap.
Next, used the mounting template as a guide, and a 7/8” hole saw and a Dremel tool to open the center oval slot. You are able to see the brake lever through that slot when done.
Used 3M synthetic double sided tape normally used for attaching emblems to cars. It is weather proof, very sticky and fairly dense.
OK, the brakes are DONE! Andy was supposed to help, Kamryn was busy...AGAIN so it was just me and Dexter (the dog).
After doing some research it seemed reasonable for me to add a proportioning valve to the system. Word is that the rear brakes tend to lock up early on this very light car so i ordered an SSBC polished knob adjustable one from Summit.
I also added a chrome Master Cylinder Cover for some bling action and an off the shelf stainless Prop. Valve Bracket... in the end it all worked very well.
As a note - I was going to run the rear line up the firewall to get into the back of the valve, but Julie came up with the much more difficult to accomplish method of running both front and rear lines together up the side frame rail. MISSION ACCOMPLISHED!!
Below are the pics of the process.
Not shown are pics of the rear brake line.... not much to see really... just a line running the length of the car to the rear.
OK, I don't have a section for the "go pedal" so plumbing and brakes seemed like a good spot to post it seeing as it's next to the brake pedal and the carb uses fuel!!
My motor was built with a Holley Street Avenger 670 cfm, Vacuum secondary, electric choke.... tame but reliable. Only problem is that when you look at the instructions it says basically "it will not work with a Ford AOD.... GREAT EH? What is one to do?
Research it and you'll see the only option is to use the Lokar Hi-Tech Kick down cable and Lokar Throttle cable combo. NICE STUFF. It also means that the mechanical throttle linkage I bought from Tim Whitaker of Kootenai Valley Customs is useless to me. Live and learn
First the carb goes on
Then the FFR gas pedal was mounted to the floor. Had to drill through the firewall but the Lokar cable is stainless braided line and billet fittings.
Cutting this line is easy as the stainless in embedded inside the rubber. The braiding is some sort of bullet proof synthetic
A job I had not been looking forward to was the rad/condenser/grill. Other than time consuming ( took me better part of a Saturday ) all went well.
Just took my time and followed instructions trying all the while to remember which way is up and front and left and right.
I had purchased one of Mike Eversons fan shrouds and remembered reading that the fan would fit in front of it. I think it was a post or a note from Dan Ruth... So I thought I'd give it a go to keep the fan tight to the rad core. Used both the stock install bars as well as the parts that came with the shroud and it all fit great.
Also noticed the the grill is already relief cut for the condenser... Nice addition to the kit.
February 23, 2014
In order to get the wiring in order the AC Evaporator had to be installed to see how much room would be left for wire management. Its gonna be a challenge, but we'll get'r done!!
|Pretty simple L Brackets out of flatbar. Andy is going to weld gussets on them for extra strength|
|Support brackets for seats bolt to frame and give seats something to bolt to|