Interior, Dash & Electronic Components


February 24, 2013

Just installed the Pedal box and Master Cylinders today. Very cool pieces. I'm on hold on the Remote Reservoir because I think I'd like to mount a billet piece on the firewall rather than inside under the cowl... need the research it more but I'm leaning toward the Scott's Hot Rods unit (below)





Pedal Box Installed

Scott's Remote Resevoir


All of the above will go away... because I am going to be pioneering a new power brake kit developed by my new pal Jeff Collins at Whitby Motorcar!!









April 12-15, 2013





While we wait for the above power brake package to arrive I decided to run the brake lines between the fronts and between the rears. I'll leave the last lines until the Master cylinder and booster arrive.

The first attempt left me with a mangled, multi-bent mess...

After a while I got the hang of it and it all turned out very neatly. My brother Vinnie and grandson Kam were over to help... and while the finished product looked very good... we went through about 15' of 3/16" line getting there.... what the hell no one said I was a professional :)


















May 3-4, 2013
Buttoned up the fuel lines, fittings and pump. Used some heat shield to help protect from muffler.

Not a fan of the stuff sent by F5. Staring with the Tank it has all be replaced with Russell Braided Lines and AN fittings, a holly Blue Pump, Holley billet Filters (Post and Pre-Filters)















May 25, 2013

I wanted power brakes for the 33. This weekend it became reality. Thanks Jeff Collins at Whitby MotorcarHe created a kit for the car. Here are the installation steps.





First, installed the new brake pedal supplied in the Kit as per the Wilwood instructions using the hardware supplied in the Factory Five Brake Pedal Package as needed. Also install the brake light switch as described in those instructions.




Used a Grade 8 - ½ bolt of the correct length as a pivot rod as bushing is too tight for the Wilwood rod and c-clips. Used some spacers and a copper thrust bearing (From F5 Kit) so that the nut and bolt can be tightened without restricting free movement of the pedal.




Next, installed the brake pedal pad from the Factory Five Kit using its’ supplied hardware. Finally, installed the entire pedal box assembly. Now lots of room for electronics.





I Removed the 6 studs used to hold the Wilwood Brake Master Cylinders as they will not be required.










Only 3 of the 4 holes go all the way through; the 2 top holes and the bottom left hole (the one closest to the center of the car). Only these 3 holes will be drilled completely through the firewall and the frame members. The 4th hole (bottom right or outboard hole) will only go through the firewall and the outer side of the firewall frame member. This is because the chassis ID or Serial Number is engraved on the inside of that frame member right where that hole would come through and you I did not want to disfigure that identification stamping.




Used a 1/4” bit to open the 4th and final mounting hole up in order to tap it with a 5/16” – 18 tap.









Next, used the mounting template as a guide, and a 7/8” hole saw and a Dremel tool to open the center oval slot. You are able to see the brake lever through that slot when done.








Used 3M synthetic double sided tape normally used for attaching emblems to cars. It is weather proof, very sticky and fairly dense.













  Finally on goes the booster and master assembly. Ready to finish brake lines!!










June1, 2013

OK, the brakes are DONE! Andy was supposed to help, Kamryn was busy...AGAIN so it was just me and Dexter (the dog). 

The mission.... finish the brakes lines front to back. Factory Five supplies steel lines in 5 foot lengths with manny union joints.... leak opportunities IMHO... not to mention i screwed up about 20 feet of line trying to get the lines from side to side fron and back done (oops).

So I bought 25" of that new Ni-Cop brake line everyones is using... and I must say it's the best! Easy to flare and bend plus I was able to go from the new master to the front and rear with NO SPLICES.

After doing some research it seemed reasonable for me to add a proportioning valve to the system. Word is that the rear brakes tend to lock up early on this very light car so i ordered an SSBC polished knob adjustable one from Summit.

I also added a chrome Master Cylinder Cover for some bling action and an off the shelf stainless Prop. Valve Bracket... in the end it all worked very well.

As a note - I was going to run the rear line up the firewall to get into the back of the valve, but Julie came up with the much more difficult to accomplish method of running both front and rear lines together up the side frame rail. MISSION ACCOMPLISHED!!

Below are the pics of the process.


Not shown are pics of the rear brake line.... not much to see really... just a line running the length of the car to the rear.


October 9, 2013

OK, I don't have a section for the "go pedal" so plumbing and brakes seemed like a good spot to post it seeing as it's next to the brake pedal and the carb uses fuel!!


My motor was built with a Holley Street Avenger 670 cfm, Vacuum secondary, electric choke.... tame but reliable. Only problem is that when you look at the instructions it says basically "it will not work with a Ford AOD.... GREAT EH? What is one to do?

Research it and you'll see the only option is to use the Lokar Hi-Tech Kick down cable and Lokar Throttle cable combo. NICE STUFF. It also means that the mechanical throttle linkage I bought from Tim Whitaker of Kootenai Valley Customs is useless to me. Live and learn

First the carb goes on

Then the FFR gas pedal was mounted to the floor. Had to drill through the firewall but the Lokar cable is stainless braided line and billet fittings.
 
 

 Then the cables hooked to the carb... voila throttle complete.


October 11, 2013


Time to finish all plumbing so we can get this this fired. We start with the fuel lines. Of course I ditched all of the factory five stuff and used braided 6AN Russell Lines. 


The uncovering of the firewall revealed that I scuffed the powder coating when i installed the engine... PISS ME OFF

Below are pics of the process beginning with the installation of the regulator


Cutting this line is easy as the stainless in embedded inside the rubber. The braiding is some sort of bullet proof synthetic

November 16, 2013

A bit of time has passed since I've been able to work on the car. Some of you may know that we just moved our dealership into a brand new building.... but thats for another blog. Well that blew away the rest of October and then I went to Sema with Orb. See the pics in the Notes, Ideas and Timeline Gaps section by clicking the link 

Anyway... back to the plumbing... The plan is to start at the front and go to the rear and button everything up so I can fire this thing in the next few weeks.

A job I had not been looking forward to was the rad/condenser/grill. Other than time consuming ( took me better part of a Saturday ) all went well.

Just took my time and followed instructions trying all the while to remember which way is up and front and left and right. 

I had purchased one of Mike Eversons fan shrouds and remembered reading that the fan would fit in front of it. I think it was a post or a note from Dan Ruth... So I thought I'd give it a go to keep the fan tight to the rad core. Used both the stock install bars as well as the parts that came with the shroud and it all fit great. 

Also noticed the the grill is already relief cut for the condenser... Nice addition to the kit.



Once the assembly is assembled :) the whole rad and grill bolts onto the supports as a whole. This will all come apart again once I finish fitting the body parts, hood, side panels etc. I wan to send the grill out for chrome and given my natural ability to screw things up (see note above about scuffing the firewall) I figured its best to do chrome after.

November 23, 2013

Well you get the idea I'm sure of how the rad and fan go together... only one thing I did wrong...

I thought I was being smart by putting the fan inside the shroud... turn out this will hinder cooling rather than help it... so I un wound what you see above and did as the interactions form Mike Everson suggests and put the fan outside the shroud.


Next up is the overflow reservoir. No room for it where its suppose to go when the A/C condenser is installed and because of the Power Brake set up (a modification to the Factory Five plan) there is no room on the firewall. So i modified the brackets it cam with an mounted it beside the radiator. It clears the suspension's upper control arm by about 3/4 of an inch at full travel. Good to go



Then all the hoses and finally in goes the antifreeze - 50/50 mix with distilled water.


Andy came over to help bench bleed the master and bleed the brake lines. Made this bench bleeder out of the many steel brake lines i screwed up earlier in the build. All went according to h'oil. Gotta firm pedal!

Next the transmission lines. No way i'm using rubber hose and there are no steel lines available so back to braided lines, this time from Fragola Performance. I got them through my new best friend Paul Hammond at Wheel Class Auto Parts here in Fonthill. Paul has been able to source just about anything I need at Canadian prices close to the US price at Summit. WHay not deal locally if you can! Check out Wheel Class here

Here's a tid bit of info. The Rad has a built in trans fluid cooler. The fitting needed there as well as at the tranny are 1/4 NPT to AN6.

The the trans fluid goes in... after buttoning up the pan. According to Performance Automatics, the Street Smart AOD should take between 10 and 11 Quarts of Dextron III. I only got 7 in before it was seeping out the splines at the tailstock. Now the car hasn't bee fired yet, so either the pump is gonna suck some up into the converter once i get it running or the convert is full and I'll be sucking some out through the dipstick!

Then goes the rear end fluid. No Limited slip friction fluid requires for a Torsen Trac-loc differential (For info on Torsen Rear end click here) so it to 2.4 quarts of 75/90 before it started to leak back out the hole.


Finally a MOPAR filter and engine oil. The filter is a bit shorter, giving me clearance for the power steering unit.

So far no leaking and all fluids except gasoline have been installed. I think the plumbing is DONE!!

February 23, 2014

In order to get the wiring in order the AC Evaporator had to be installed to see how much room would be left for wire management. Its gonna be a challenge, but we'll get'r done!!



As you can see I also started to tidy up the wiring from and back. First the gas tank had to come out to button down the floor panel beneath it and trunk panels. Then I started covering wiring with Painless Power Braid


November 9, 2014

Well I'm back at it. After the entire summer off (see why here) I'm trying to wrap the small things up that need to be done before the body goes on and tunnel goes back in for sound deadening and interior mock up.

THE SEATS - Andy has got them narrowed and now they need to be mounted. Brackets have to be made and bolted to the chassis to give them support as only one corner hit the chassis on its own. As soon as the passenger side is done they will go out for leather. Geez i wish i could settle on what I want them to look like!

Pretty simple L Brackets out of flatbar. Andy is going to weld gussets on them for extra strength
November 30, 2014

Ok. Made a list - checked it twice - started knocking off the to do's before the body goes on.

I finished mocking up the passenger seat. Just have to clean up the brackets, paint them and send the seats out for upholstery




In the next while I will pre-wire for the stereo components. All the pieces are here and in the closet waiting for their installation date!

The core system will be a Clarion NZ503 Head unit, Kenwood Excelon XR-400-4 reference series amp powering a set of Alpine SPR-50C components in the rear and a pair of Image Dynamics CTX-4 in the front footwells. Rounding out the bass will be a Kicker 11HS8 self enclosed and powered sub box behind the driver seat. All shown below.


FatMat Mega Mat for Sound control. See entry on Feb  1st on the
Body, Structure & Aluminum Panel Page - CLICK HERE

Support brackets for seats bolt to frame and give seats something to bolt to
Painted
November 8, 2015
Just when you think things are going well you find an issue. 

When looking at to do list, one thing that needed doing was of course tidying up the wiring. That includes the wires attached to the Vinage Air Control Panel.

Well don't i notice the knobs had become brittle and cracked off in my hand when testing them.

I called Vinatge air and it seems they had a bad batch of resin and this was a known issue... withing a week a new set of knobs arrived





  



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